Payao Fish Market

Payao Fish Market is a wide and stretched smile in the face of harsh winds. It has a shape that is simple, squared off, and battered from countless hurricanes (or typhoons as they are more commonly referred to in this region of the world) that come through every year. The style of architecture may be unimaginative from a more artistic standpoint, but it stands to appeal to the pragmatic side of some individuals. Most buildings are reinforced with rebar and layers of concrete and sand out around the Pacific Rim which creates less design options that might make those more creative architects cringe. The dull and walled off picnic section with a duller awning overhead is a simple statement. That statement in particular is this building is in the boondocks of Okinawa so they can’t afford fancy architecture and embellishment that will be blown away next typhoon season.

The interior is even less exciting, with a wide open concrete space that is hosed down at the end of the night. Between the concrete support beams are nothing but rows of vendors and fishermen. The insulation is poorly set up so when the heat waves roll in you can see the condensation and mildew that builds up along the bare concrete ceiling. Down to the letter, it’s a poorly built warehouse that inspires no real architectural ingenuity, but maybe it is that simplicity is what houses a community beneath its roof.

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I spent a lot of time in this port and this building in particular during my teenage years. Hanging out along port and watching the fishing rigs head out to sea, or purchasing freshly caught fish and watching the cashier punch the numbers into a simple calculator that probably should have been decommissioned 15 years ago. A building doesn’t have to always make a bold statement so as long as it can house an atmosphere that reflects the world around it then it’s good enough for me.

Admittedly, most port fish markets in this region of the world look pretty much the same, but I won’t deny that this one in particular is one that will always stand out to me. Call it sentiment, call it worn down sediment, this is about a building and one’s emotion, and this one will always speak to me.

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